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High Point’s doughnut culture

by Brian Clarey

‘ editor@yesweekly.com

Ido a lot of writing in coffeeshops. It gets me out of the office, away from the phones and the chatter. Plus, in a coffeeshop, there’s basically an unlimited supply of coffee right there.

This afternoon, I’m taking my coffee in High Point, at a bakery I heard about that specializes in doughnuts. I assume they serve coffee too.

Sure enough, there’s a full barista menu at Granny’s Donuts, up on the wall among smoothies, frappes and pastries. But I quickly get the sense that this isn’t one of those hang-out-and-write coffee shops — just three small café tables along the window, all artwork supplied by product vendors. There’s just a single outlet to plug into.

I’m thinking most people come for the doughnuts, and I’m looking at a low wall of them right now, beneath the glass of the long display case, with sprinkles and coconut shavings; icings of pink and white and chocolate brown; twisted and rolled and filled with jellies and creams; a full complement of doughnut holes awaiting mastication.

When I was a kid, I loved doughnuts, for obvious reasons. A few bad interactions with mass-produced, chain-store doughnuts put me off of them when I was still a teenager. Then the whole Krispy Kreme thing went down and I was back in it… until I ate way too many hot doughnuts at one session and swore doughnuts off forever.

Then: Donut World in Greensboro, and the realization that maybe the things I was eating weren’t doughnuts at all.

Like at the Donut World enterprise that’s rejuvenated many another Greensboroan’s love of those sweet little delectables, the wares at Granny’s Donuts are made in a back kitchen and sold up front in boxes and by the piece. And like Donut World, Granny’s has earned a reputation for its fritters. That’s what I’m here to check out.

I get the cherry fritter — there’s also a pineapple version along with the more common apple variety — with a coffee. The guy puts my cream in it for me and puts my fritter on a cafeteria tray with a slice of wax paper.

It’s fantastic, of course — aren’t they all? — but this one surpasses most I have tried. It’s crispy in all the right places, with a generous cherry vein running through it. Even better, I can finish it without pushing it away in disgust. I don’t hate myself after eating this fritter. My only regret is that I didn’t get this first thing in the morning, when it was fresh and warm.

Already I’m hatching plans for a return. I’ve got my eye on the banana-filled doughnut, some of those redvelvet doughnut holes. And there’s definitely going to be a warm pineapple fritter in my future.

WANNA go?

Granny’s Donuts; 1701 N. Main St., High Point; 336.885.9595

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