Feb. 1, 2012 10:39

Fueling up at the Burger Stop

art1508640

Not your usual burger and fries: the truffle fries complement a black-andbleu burger at Burger Stop.

(photo by Brian Clarey)

I´ve got the feeling I’ve been here before, this little restaurant on North Battleground Avenue tucked into the retail space adjacent to the Exxon station — because, of course, I have. This was the home of a New York-style deli for a time, and also the cookery of a fabulous Cajun chef from Baton Rouge who made his own olive salad for the muffaletta and authentic etouffee.

Now the place is devoted to the quintessential American dish: the hamburger. Guy & Jerry’s Burger Spot does more than just burger and fries — they’ve got salads, brats and dogs, pimiento cheese and marinated chicken breast on the menu — but if I’ve learned one thing in the 20 or so years I’ve been writing about food for money, it’s that if a place is named after a dish, you better damn well order that dish.

This is no simple feat here. Patrons can choose from “almost” size, a third of a pound, or “big,” which is a half-pound. And then there is the option of turkey, veggie or Angus beef — this is the only place I know of that actually makes their own veggie burgers in house with pureed beans and vegetables. But seriously: How ya gonna turn down Angus beef? For me, there’s just no way.

Further complicating the issue is the burger menu itself, which includes the classic style; the Carolina; the barbecue; the Philly with mushrooms, peppers and onions; the Mediterranean, with hummus and tzatzki sauce; and one slathered with the aforementioned pimiento cheese.

I make mine a black and bleu, with bleu cheese and some very nice bacon.

And now for the fries, which come with bacon and cheddar, chili and cheese, pesto and garlic aioli, Parmesan and garlic, nacho style and… wait for it… truffles, graced with white truffle oil. There is absolutely no way I can turn down a menu item like that.

“Don’t put any ketchup on ’em,” the counterman advises.

Food comes up fast here, and as I carry my tray to my seat I become intoxicated by the smell of the truffle oil, musky and mysterious.

Let’s talk truffles for a moment, shall we? I am fascinated by these pungent fungi, among the most rare and valuable of foods, with a subtle yet permeating flavor that makes me go weak in the knees. I would eat a piece of tree bark if it were soaked in truffle oil, and smelling the vapors rising from these fries makes me swoon.

They’re delicious, of course, even when I accidentally dip some of them in ketchup. I devour half of them before I even touch my burger.

I suppose I should say a few words about Guy & Jerry’s signature product. The burger is beautiful, tucked into a golden bun that’s been polished with melted butter, piled with thick-cut, peppered bacon cooked to a nice crispness and a handful of the bleu. It’s a classic combination well executed — the burger patty retains some pink in the middle, and the strong beef flavor of the Angus makes itself known amid the riot of tastes. I had ordered the “almost” size, but next time, for sure, I’m going for the “big.”

The Burger Spot is still new, open just a couple of weeks when I make my visit, which means that the place will be adding menu items and trying new recipes as it evolves. This is good news. You can never have enough good burgers in a town like this, and good burgers — along with magnificent fries — are what the Burger Spot is all about.

wanna go?

Guy & Jerry’s Burger Spot 3750-A Battleground Ave., Greensboro 336.617.3777

Also in Chow

EVENTS CALENDAR

FACEBOOK

STORY COMMENTS