Jan. 22, 2014 10:44

Filling Station is a neighborhood go-to in Lindley Park

LPFS chow_0422

| eric@yesweekly.com
| @Eric_Ginsburg

There  are a handful of restaurants so prominent in Greensboro’s dining scene — due to a mix of longevity and quality — that it may seem like everyone knows. That’s exactly why I’ve been surprised when people have told me they’ve never been to the Lindley Park Filling Station, and somewhat red-faced when I realized YES! Weekly hasn’t written about the restaurant on the lively neighborhood corner save an article about its opening in 2007.

When I think of the Filling Station, I’m really thinking of one sandwich in particular and the sweet potato chips that come with it. The Madison Avenue, one of a dozen sandwiches at the neighborhood bar and restaurant, comes with turkey, slices of Granny Smith apple and honey walnut cream cheese on a croissant ($8.50).

The menu subheads may sound basic — appetizers, salads, burgers, hot dogs, wraps and sandwiches — but the execution is a cut above other standard American restaurant food.

Following the staff’s lead this week — two of them separately said the Berkshire wrap is their favorite — I ordered the entrée that is filled with angus meatloaf, provolone cheese, mushrooms, fried onions and chipotle ketchup ($9). Not wanting to overload on red meat, I switched things up by selecting the Lindley Sunset, the half sandwich or wrap option matched with soup or salad for $8.25.

Opting for the namesake item from “the garden patch,” I coupled the Berkshire with “the Filling Station” salad — which comes with craisens, Bleu cheese and walnuts on a spring mix salad. The generous salad helping, stacked higher than the wrap and almost spilling over the side of the tray, easily carried its own weight and balanced the heartier half of the meal. Great for someone like me, who at least pays lip service to eating healthier but likely wouldn’t fill up on a salad alone.

Some people’s eyes light up when they see meatloaf on a menu. I’m not one of them. But trusting the staff, who definitively recommended it and one of whom almost salivated at the thought of it, was the right call. It’s even good enough that I left without even mild regret for neglecting my go-to.

I came once with a friend who generously agreed to split a $50 gift certificate with me, and though we managed to blow the whole thing in one sitting, a considerable enough portion went towards drinks, clouding my memory of exactly what we selected. I am confident bacon and cheese fries were involved and an educated guess puts money on chicken wings and baked artichoke dip, but let’s just summarize and say I walked away full and happy.

There’s a separate Sunday brunch menu, preferably enjoyed under the sun’s warmth on the enclosed patio but solid enough to merit off-season excursions. I’ve tried a few of the dishes, with the $12 NC shrimp & grits (tasso ham and roasted red pepper étouffée, North Carolina shrimp and stone-ground cheddar grits) ranking first on my list. There is also a tempting $4 mimosa option.

The Filling Station, a sister restaurant to nearby Josephine’s Bistro, is the sort of neighborhood spot where regulars show up and sit at the bar with a newspaper or families walk from the surrounding area. I’ve come here for work meetings at lunch. I’ve come on dates because it’s cozy (which also means likely avoiding people we know), looks more upscale than the price reflects and the TVs aren’t as prominent as other bars. And I’ve come drinking and eating with friends.

This Monday night, people came for all those purposes and reasons, and by 7 p.m., there was even a short wait. Cite the fluke warm weather or the Martin Luther King Jr. holiday, but despite normal Monday lulls, the Filling Station stays relatively busy.

It’s a place where I always order the same thing unless it’s brunch, but where I feel safe on the rare occasions that I wander to other parts of the menu. !

WANNA go?

Lindley Park Filling Station is located at 2201 Walker Ave. in Greensboro. Call 336.274.2144 or visit lindleyfillingstation.com for more information.

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